Have just ordered my kit, but, have read about powering it with 9V, insead of 12V.
My question is, does the filter draw little enough power, to make this practical? Don't want to be changing batteries every few hours of use.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks and 73,

Bill, k6mgo

G'day guys. I have just completed building my Nescaf and I must say, it's a great piece of gear for any qrp shack. Mine worked first time and I have made good use of it already in stormy weather here in the sub tropics. I would like to hear from experienced users what the best way to use the filter is. I find I am flat strapped just copying fast code without having to work out which knob to twiddle half way through a qso. What have you found works best? Where should the knobs be set to start off once the filter is switched in? Which pot is best to tune in first? Any ideas that could help would be most appreciated.

Just signed in as a new member and wanted to say hello to everyone. I'm about to retire and will be moving back to Mass in Nov when my wife retires. Yes, I know that sounds crazy, to move back, but with 50+ family members all in the Athol area, we decided it's cheaper to move up there than to bring them down here for visits!
For the past 6 years, I've been working 2 meters as a tech, but am learning CW and assembling a small low-power station. I'm looking forward to getting back to N.E. and getting involved with the NEQRP Club. I'll be listening in on the Thursday 80 m net and if I get brave enough I might sign in.....or maybe not!

I decided that as I put together the WM-2 QRP Wattmeter Kit from Oak Hills Research, it might be fun to photo-document the entire process ... so I did, step-by-step.
Anyone who has never built a kit will find this of interest, as will anyone who is considering this QRP Wattmeter kit. You will see the process described in about 10 large, clear photos on my website. Go to:

http://members.cox.net/jrehak/

and click on "The Joy of Kit Building"

This may be the last thing y'all hear outta me, but maybe not. It's real nice to be back in Rhode Island, the state with no street signs. The overall effect could be perfected by not allowing numbers on buildings, or signage of any kind. It really makes a sailor feel welcome. But I digress.

The amateur radio community has made me welcome, and for that I am grateful. I like the good bunch of ham folks around here.

That we are all QRP'ers should make you a little skeptical about me. But it's alright. My operating philosophy has less to do with pedantics and more to do with Annie Oakley and the Treaty of Greenville.

Hi! This is one of those things I imagine everybody knows, but I never heard about it before it stubbed my toe.

When copying a weak CW signal on a noisy band, adjust the NOTCH to a point just above the desired signal. Doing so seems to make the desired signal pop out in the audio, while reducing close-in noise. Please try it.

Hello all; I am 68yrs and a retired electrician. First licenced 1954 as Wn1DGE at 15.
I am just getting active again building after 30yr. Last time I built anything was in 70's. I just finished a DC40a that has got me hooked again on minimalmist rigs. I have always enjoyed using CW always under 50W. Committing to 5w or less is very intriguing.
I'm finding that my junk-box is conducive to building glow-bug type gear so kits are the order of the day.

In the step that says apply audio to C9, the audio I want to apply is from my rig. Do I connect one lead of my audio output to C9 and the other to ground?